In DC, when you want a bite to eat at 3 in the morning, you grab a Jumbo Slice on 18th street, or get a grilled cheese at an all night diner. In Italy, you go in the back door of a bakery selling sandwiches and cream filled brioches on the sly. In Madrid you can get a falafel or a kebab. But in Istanbul when you make your weary way out of the disco, you eat steamed mussels stuffed with delicious rice and plenty of fresh lemon juice from the guys selling them on every street corner. I don't even like shell fish all that much, but this was an unforgettable experience; so good that even the vegetarians I'm traveling with ate a couple. Fantastic. And even if Rough Guide says not to eat them under any circumstances, I think I'll risk it again next time I pass through.
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